Damir Doma collection a/w 2010 at Paris Fashion Week
Like beings from a different planet, Damir Doma’s models glided ethereally through the eminent surroundings of the Lycée Henri IV at the Sorbonne on Wednesday evening. For this, the 29 year-old designer’s first foray into women’s wear after four years’ designing for men, Doma applied his avant-garde ethos to the feminine world, resulting in a collection which reflects an equally diverse range of interpretations of gender and sexuality.
A long corridor lined with shelves and filled with books right up to the high ceiling formed the catwalk. The slightly dusty, mysterious setting struck a philosophical note, calling to mind the transience of earthly beauty.
Contrasts defined the collection. The delicate frames of the models were enveloped in outsized hoods, fine jersey and rough-knit wool. Their porcelain-like faces wore looks of iron determination, suggesting the self-confidence and pride of the Damir Doma woman. Asymmetric jackets, cape-like coats and the striking absence of collars on shirts and dresses were the standout features of the collection, which remained faithful to Doma’s usual palette of black, grey and nude tones. The bubble formed the predominant silhouette. The simple, generous shapes lent the designs an androgynous character, reminiscent of the work of avant-garde Belgian-school designers such as Raf Simons.
This is no coincidence. Following his graduation from the Berlin and Munich ESMOD international fashion schools, Doma, a German designer with Croatian roots, began his career assisting Simons in Antwerp, Belgium. Here, he developed his purist, structural style and began pursuing the goal of uniting body, mind and spirit in his designs.
It’s a worthy goal and we look forward to seeing the creations it produces for Damir Doma’s next collection.
(Inga Krieger, AMD Akademie Mode & Design, for creative face Magazine)
