Italian Designers – Next Generation presented by Mercedes-Benz at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin a/w 2010 / Photo: Tom Felber
Promoting young talent has always been a central concern of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, so it was not surprising to see the work of a handful of young Italian designers at Bebelplatz this year. Five labels were selected by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana to show their collections in Berlin.
Like a delicious Four Seasons pizza, there was something for everyone here. Christina Miraldi opened the show with her elegant collection in which over-the-knee socks, shorts with gathered waists and shades of grey predominated. The standout piece was an open hoop-skirt construction which spiralled around the model’s legs.
Mauro Gasperi and Christiano opted for similarly muted tones for their figure-hugging Italian styles. While Mauro Gasperi impressed with his loose jersey weaves and crater-like textures, Christiano showed a chic, graceful collection in chiffon, fur and leather, accentuating the wearers’ curves through sparkling sheer fabrics and zebra-striped leggings. Paolo Enrico, by contrast, showed a layered look exuding raw-power in unfinished hems, gathers and patchwork-style cuts.
But the highlight of the show was without a doubt the collection by A-LAB Milano. The young label’s three designers Alessandro Biasi, Andrea Orazi and Simona Costa sent their models down the runway in ram’s horns and tie-dyed jumpsuits in earth tones. A classical, majestic mood was created by abstractly accentuated hips and models decked out entirely in bronze. Against the background of spacey-martial music, the impression was gladiator meets Star Wars princess.
The young trio of designers founded A-LAB Milano in October 2006 with the goal of breaking away from conventional standards and trends in Italian design and creating something new and individual. Allowing different moods to inspire their work, they design collections that not only tell a story but also convey emotions. In 2008, A-LAB Milano showed at Toronto Fashion Week and the following year as part of the Fashion Incubator Project at Milan Fashion Week 2009.
The appearance of these young up-coming Italian fashion designers was certainly a valuable addition to Berlin Fashion Week. Let’s hope we see more!
(Turid Reinicke, AMD Akademie Mode & Design, for creative face Magazine)
